Saturday, September 5, 2009

Hijras & Trains


One of the more "interesting" things that you see on trains in India is hijras (rough translation: eunuch). They are considered to be a member of "the third gender" -- neither man nor woman. Most are physically male -- but they refer to themselves linguistically as female, and usually dress as women.

On the train back from Goa, I had my second encounter with hijras (first time was on the train to Pondicherry).

They announce themselves on trains with lots of clapping and snapping -- and go through the train demanding money from the men. Apparently if refused, hijras will embarrass the man into giving money by cursing them, using obscene gestures, or profane language (I guess they'll even go as far as flashing their bits). All of the guys around me immediately paid up -- and they all stared at the ground while the hijra passed by. Most of the men gave the hijra 10 rupees -- and s/he even demanded that a couple of guys to give her more.

Most hijras live at the margins of society with very low status and few employment opportunities -- most get their income from performing at ceremonies, begging, or prostitution.

According to wikipedia -- Hijras perform religious ceremonies at weddings and at the birth of male babies, involving music, singing, and sexually suggestive dancing. These are intended to bring good luck and fertility. Although the hijra are uninvited, the host usually pays the hijras a fee. Many fear the hirjas' curse if they are not appeased, bringing bad luck or infertility, but for the fee they receive, they can bless goodwill and fortune on the newly born. Hijras are said to be able to do this because, since they do not engage in sexual activities, they accumulate their sexual energy which they can use to either bestow a boon or a bane. (not sure how that works though with the prostitution thing)

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